Not all Catfish are the Same!
There are, ultimately, 4 types of freshwater catfish in the U.S. While some are considered invasive to parts of the country, one form or another can be found in almost any freshwater habitat you explore. Blues are probably the most photogenic of the options. Channels are some of the most commonly seen. Flatheads are considered the most rare in many areas. Then there’s bullheads that can be either black or yellow.
Blue Catfish
The blue catfish is probably the most self-explanatory of all catfish species. The back will have a blue hue that wraps down the fish’s sides as it fades into a white belly. It will generally have 30-35 rays on the anal fin. You will know you have a blue as soon as you count the 30th ray. They will also have a forked tail. Their diet varies between invertebrates, other fish, and the occasional insect. Blues are one of the most popular catfish for anglers wanting to harvest a meal. Of particular interest is the fact that blues are statistically the largest of all catfish.
Channel Catfish
The channel catfish can have a blue tint similar to the blue catfish, but will typically have more of a deep grey back that fades down the sides into a silver belly. Their sides are commonly splattered with black specs that will fade as they mature. Average lengths will generally be around 22 inches, but they can get up to 52 inches in the wild. Their anal fin will have 24-29 rays. The channel cat is often considered the least selective feeder of all the catfish species. They’ll eat almost anything (worms, grasshoppers, shrimp, artificial baits, power bait, chicken, cheese…). I often hear comments that they taste muddier than blues so they are typically pursued for the fight more than the harvest. And they will most definitely put up a fight.
Flathead Catfish
The flathead catfish is, arguably, the most elusive of the 4 species. They are more selective on their feeding habits, typically more skittish than the other cats, and can reach up to 4 feet in length. Flatheads usually have a light brown back that can have a yellow hue. The coloring will fade to a pale yellow or cream color on the belly. There will be 16 or fewer rays on the anal fin. It’s normal for them to have dark brown or black mottling that seems to highlight the yellow tones rather well. The yellow highlights have lead to many referring to these fish as yellow cats. Other distinguishing features are the discrete notch to the tail and the projecting lower jaw. Second, only to blues in size, it is normal to catch 50 to 100+ pound flatheads.
Bullheads (Black or Yellow)
Bullheads can be either black or yellow. The black bullheads are so dark on the back that they will typically appear black with the sides fading into a grey belly. In certain lighting, you’ll probably see a bit of a green hue to their darker portions of their skin. The anal fin will only have 17-21 rays. Their chin barbels will be black. And, just for fun, they seem to respond best to worms. Yellow bullheads are just that, yellow. Their back is lighter in color with a yellowish/brown back that fades into a light yellow or white belly. There is no notch on their tail which can appear almost circular. Yellow bullheads will have white barbells and 23-27 rays on their anal fins.
Catfish Edge has some additional interesting facts if you’re wanting to learn a little more about these great fish.
Fisheries are different throughout the nation.
Generally, your local fish and game agency will know the statistics and common species for your area’s fisheries. They are an excellent resource when learning to fish local waters. Facebook groups for your local waterways will also offer you a variety of information from what fisheries to pick for your target species, what baits are working best in the area, and even what time of day they are biting best.
You can fish for the exact same species of fish in two different lakes, both being fed by the same river, that are 5 miles apart, and end up having to use 100% different gear to get the same rates of bites. This is a big part of where flexibility comes into play. The more you fish, especially when you are targeting one specific species, the more you will learn about variety and technique. This is why learning your specific fisheries is so vital to growing your success.
Fish species do have common traits that will help influence your choices in baits, gear, and locations. Catfish are no different in this regard. So, to start your planning and practicing, let’s look at the catfish basics.
When you are hunting for catfish, you’re going to be choosing one of three types of water:
- Stagnate water (such as a lake or pond),
- Slow-moving water (such as a stream or creek),
- Fast-moving water (like your larger rivers)
The first thing to remember is that fish do not want to exert more energy than they have to. Fast-moving water forces the fish to work harder to control his movement and search for food. Catfish, in particular, are notorious for hiding out in dens where they don’t have to exert any energy. Especially in moving waters, they will commonly pick a location close to moving water so they can watch for food passing by in the current. Something appetizing passes by, they shoot out, eat their target, and return to their den. This is where suspended baits serve as an excellent temptation for your target fish.
Alternately, in stagnate or slow-moving waters that do not create extra work for the fish, cats will often patrol their area. They’ll scavenge for food multiple times a day. Typically, they’ll be scouring the floor of their fishery. This isn’t a hard and fast rule, but it is a statistically solid option for minimizing your efforts. The more focused you can make your efforts, the less frustrated you will become and the more successful your fishing adventures will become. For these reasons, it is common to use a bottom fishing rig (such as the Santee Cooper rig, the Slip Weight rig, and the Three-Way rig).
Gear can make all the difference…
Just like what we talked about in “the Three Rules for Becoming a Successful Angler,” you don’t have to spend a fortune to start catfishing. You need a rod, a reel, line, and a hook. Your choice of fishery will determine if you need anything else.
I suggest you start with the rod and reel.
All things being equal, invest your money into the reel over the rod. Case in point: My favorite setup for suspended bait fishing (especially from a dock, boat, or kayak) is the Ugly Stick Catfish Special (8 foot, medium/heavy) with a RUNCL Spinning Reel Titan II 5000. The rod is typically $60 but I got it on sale at about $45. The reel was $57. The selling point for me was that the Runcl is braid-ready and has a 44lb drag. That drag can make all the difference in the world when you’re fighting catfish of varying sizes. AJ fought a 9-pound cat for almost an hour on the same rod once. A few hours later she spent over an hour fighting a monster that ended up breaking 40-pound braid just before surfacing.
Now, alternately, my favorite rod for bottom fishing setups (especially when bank fishing) is a Pro Cat Casting (7 foot, Extra Heavy) that is no longer in production with a Bass Pro Cat Maxx Reel. I invested all of $20 on the rod on clearance and spent about $50 on the reel during a sale. I’ve caught about 10 or 15 cats on that setup since I bought it last year and it’s showing no signs of wearing out…The point is, even fishing every week as I do, you don’t have to spend hundreds on a setup to start fishing or even to maintain a fishing obsession.
Your choice of line can make or break your experience
Can you land a 30-pound catfish on 10-pound monofilament? Yes. Is it easy? Absolutely no. Should you even try? Not as a new angler and probably not even as an experienced angler. As a new angler, I highly recommend braided line. You are less likely to break off. The line will have some stretch and give without being too pliable for insecure hook-sets. Most importantly, the line has a degree of floating quality which will help give your bait a more natural presentation.
And then there’s the rest of the gear…
As for hooks, I would recommend you stick to two options. The one that works best will be up to personal preference and personal fishing styles. The most common and popular option for catfishing is the circle hook. Without a doubt, you are best off choosing the highest quality you can afford. I prefer Gamakatsu circle hooks for my own setups because I know they will hold up for multiple uses and will remain sharp. The other style hook I use is the Wide Gap (EWG) hook. When I am fishing for other species and have a catfish pole just hanging out in case a cat happens by, I don’t want to be distracted watching for a bite. It’s been my experience that the wide gap hooks tend to set themselves rather easily and allows me to take a bit longer when responding to the bite.
When catfishing, always use a swivel.
Cats have a knack for doing the alligator death spin when you’re fighting them. A swivel will prevent the line from twisting and, in turn, help keep tension on the hook. Their death roll is an attempt to break free of the hook so any bit of help you can give yourself will be appreciated in the long run.
- Left to right:
- The swivel snap is the most likely swivel to fail on you
- Barrel swivels are good for catfishing, but have a lower weight capacity
- The power swivel will typically hold up to more weight at the same size as its equivalent barrel swivel.
- Three way swivels are available in a variety of styles.
Bobbers have a purpose.
If you’re using live bait or a suspended bait setup, you’re going to need a bobber. Even some of your bottom fishing setups will need a bobber. You’ve got tons of options. Find what works for you and don’t be afraid to experiment.
Put some thought into weights.
If you’re doing a bottom fishing technique, you’ll need a weight to hold the line down. Current, surface obstructions, and substrate will make huge differences in the type and amount of weight you need. Strong currents, especially undertows, will require larger weights (even 3 or 4-ounce weights may be necessary). In still waters, you can probably get away with something as light as a quarter or half-ounce weight. You’re going to need to think very critically about the type of weight you use. Strong currents on rock or sand substrate can be highly conducive to a flat, no-roll, weight. Heavy obstruction (trees, shrubs, trash) you may want to gravitate towards a no-snag, drift style weight. For a complete breakdown of just about every fishing weight imaginable, check out Outdoor Life.
The Big Step: Rigging your Line
There are 5 basic setups commonly used for catfishing. When I’m fishing with live bait I tend to use the standard Live Bait setup. The rest of the time I typically use the slip sinker setup. These choices are based on the success rates I’ve had fishing my normal fisheries. I try to always have supplies with me to accommodate different setups (especially when exploring new fisheries) so that I will always have options for difficult bite outings.
The Setups I suggest you learn and experiment with are:
Live Bait
These are some of the most common hook locations
Run the hook through the lips, hook the bait through the spine behind the dorsal fin, or place the hook at the base of the caudal (tail) fin.
Slip Sinker
Float Rig
Santee Cooper
Three-Way Rig
When it comes to bait, there is a saying that guides the fishing world: Match the hatch!
Catfish will start as young as 4 months old hunting for fish. The ultimate delicacy is the local fish fry. If you’re not sure what baitfish are common in your chosen waterway, and you can’t find resources to tell you, try a cast net. One or two casts and you’ll know what babies are navigating the perils of local predator fish. Most of the time you will discover that your options are some combination of bluegill, shad, or minnow. Sometimes you’ll find crawdads (aka crayfish) or other crustaceans in the waterway. If they’re there, catfish are eating them. Another option you may benefit from is studying the insects around you as you’re fishing. Grasshoppers, Crickets, Dragonflies, Cicadas, and other insects have a tendency to land in the water. Anything touching the water is fair game to your local catfish.
Alternately, there is validity to offering catfish baits such as chicken liver, dogfood, chicken breast or thigh, and other meat. Noticing a trend? Catfish are carnivores. They are also garbage disposals. If it smells bad, looks rotten, and has a hint of edibility there is a chance that a catfish will take a taste. The thing to remember, however, is that you will typically struggle more with these unusual baits than when you offer the food they are most inclined to eating daily.
A few extra Catfish tips from lessons learned the hard way
Your drag is your friend.
A catfish is naturally strong. They have a built-in drive to fight no matter the circumstances. If you are reeling in a catfish and you tighten down that drag too far, you’re giving him the chance to snap that line. Always remember, when in the heat of the moment, even a small 2 pound fish can apply 2 to 3 times their weight in force as they fight a hook.
Say you are using 10 pound line, you get excited and tighten your drag so he can’t swim away as you reach for your net. A common catfish reel will easily have a 15-20 pound drag. 15 pounds of pressure from your end on 10 pound line meets the 16 pounds of pressure a 4 pound cat can exert and your line will be the straw that breaks.
The solution? Don’t be afraid to let the cat run a little. Kep your drag loose enough that you’re not going to break the line. Let it apply a bit of pressure to help you wear out your opponent, but don’t go all in. Different lines will work differently on different reels so don’t be afraid to experiment. You will learn quickly after a couple of broken lines.
Catfish have weapons!
Their mouths are filled with tiny, sharp, coarse sandpaper-type teeth. Their habit to whip back and forth, in conjunction with those teeth, will shred your skin in a heartbeat. So don’t hesitate to use a fish gripper or thicker glove.
In addition to their teeth, they have spines that line their dorsal and pectoral fins. The spines are made worse by glands that excrete toxins along those spines. They won’t hesitate to spear you given the chance. The solution? Pay attention to your fish and use caution when handling them. They do not spike anglers often, but the risk is very real. And if you’re likely to deal with allergies (like I am) you probably don’t want to risk experiencing those toxins.
Now, if you do get stabbed, you’re going to probably want medical attention. Most people who are subjected to the damage of a catfish spine are given a tetanus shot (if not current) and given antibiotics. Catfish, like most fish, have a hefty level of bacteria in their system that they are completely comfortable with. They aren’t common bacterias for most of us humans though. If you opt to not seek medical attention, at least ensure that you remove remnants of the spike (best to use tweezers) and clean out the wound. I have come across a few recommendations that you spread some of the “slime” from the catfish that stabbed you on the wound to reduce the pain until you can get to more effective care. Neither AJ nor I have experienced a stab since I learned of this trick, so I can’t say for sure if it works or not, but the science behind it sounds rather solid.
Catfish are vocal
The first time you catch a catfish, you’re likely to be surprised by the arguing they tend to vocalize. They can croak, growl, whine, cry, and even bark when you get them aggravated. Watching anglers on tv and YouTube will expose you to some of those sounds, but I assure you, the sound is a whole new experience in person. Personally, I’m rather fascinated by the sounds they make and even talk to them when they start grumbling about our encounters.