A popular choice, especially for new anglers, is to have a staff member at your local tackle shop spool your reel before you go fishing. Now, this is definitely convenient and (in some cases) can ensure that you are starting with a properly spooled, ready-to-fish reel. There are, however, 3 MAJOR issues with this method.
One,
when you’re out on the water (kayaking, boating, or even bank fishing) what happens when you catch a “monster” fish that beats your line to hell and back? It’s frayed, battered, stained, and ready to snap if you look at it wrong. Do you really want to call it a day and head home instead of trying one more time for a catch of a lifetime? Learning to spool your own reels can turn your short day chasing lines into a full day’s quest for that grand story of a fishing adventure.
Two,
when you have a “pro” spool your reel you are typically restricted to the house line for free (or “cheap” price). Otherwise you’ll pay premium dollar for your choice of line. Frequently your choice of line will still be limited to 5 or 6 in-store options. On rare occasions, shops will let you bring your own line in for them to spool, but that includes even more added fees. If you fish frequently you are likely to have to re-spool your line multiple times a year.
I have one fishing rod that I take with me almost every time I fish regardless of where I am fishing. It’s nothing for me to re-spool that rod 8-10 times a year. Yes, I should probably re-spool it more than that with the abuse I put it through, but I tend to push my gear beyond their limits. Even if you only have to re-spool your line a couple of times a year, you are looking at a decent chunk of change. That money could buy you multiple lures, some massively successful Gamakatsu hooks, or a new rod and reel setup.
Three,
what if you don’t live near a reliable re-spooling service? The city I live in doesn’t have a local tackle shop. The only option I have is a big-box chain sports store with no true fishing experts. If I wanted to go to a local style tackle shop, I would be driving over 2 hours every time I wanted a reel re-spooled. The cost of fuel alone would be enough to get a new lure or two. Add to that the cost of all that valuable lost time and I could never justify the cost of going to someone else to spool my reels for me. If you feel the same way, you’re going to benefit tremendously by learning to spool your own reels.
As a side note:
Another way to save a bit of money and make your line last a little longer is reusing your line. As long as there is not significant damage, you can remove your line from your reel and spool it back on to your reel the opposite direction. The half to two-thirds of the line closest to your line spool rarely sees the challenges of your fishery. Because of that, it is essentially new and (if treated correctly) can be used as your useable line to extend its life a bit further.
Old line, if properly cared for, can be respooled.
Removing the line from your reel and respooling the line backwards can allow you to use the portion of the line that was never abused by the fishing process.
How do you get started?
First, you need to understand your reel.
Different reels (spinning, Spin Casting, Bait Casting) have different demands for line and spooling. If you need to brush up on the technical differences between the different reels, check out “Know Your Fishing Gear, Know Your Fishing Reel” for a concise breakdown of the basics every angler should know.
Spinning reels
When you’re using a spinning reel, the first major difference you’ll notice is the open spool. The open, unrestrictive, style makes for much easier casting when using lighter-weight tackle. It also makes for easier, smoother casting for most new anglers. Open setups can also help with noticing a lighter bite when using a slower hook and bobber type fishing method.
You’re common options for line will be fluorocarbon, monofilament, or braided line. Fluorocarbon is typically difficult to see in the water, doesn’t tend to absorb the water, and is rather sturdy. Monofilament is more delicate and will become softer over time as it absorbs water. Braid is generally considered the most durable of the three types of line, has more of a tendency to float, is highly unlikely to get line twist, and has a higher test strength at the comparable diameters. For these reasons, many anglers tend to choose braided line for their spinning reels.
Different spinning reels, however, require different setups. Some manufacturers will recommend a mono or fluoro backing. You will discover that this recommendation is more common with bait casters than spinning reels, but be aware that some manufacturers will also recommend this for their spinning reels.
When learning to spool your reels, the key lesson is to research your reel (owner’s manual, manufacturer’s website, and reviews can all help with knowing what you’ll need). As you grow in your fishing and spooling skills, you’ll rely more on experience than owners manuals for most of your day to day use, but when you’re a beginner you’ll save yourself hours of headache when you spend a little bit of time with those manuals.
Spincast reels
The most common of beginner reels, the spincast reel is a fully encased spool of fishing line. They were invented in the 1940s to help anglers who were becoming frustrated with the frequent backlashes and bird’s nests associated with baitcasters. Spincast reels operate on the premise that because the spool doesn’t move (like a spinning reel) the risk of backlash is eliminated.
Now, speaking from personal experience, I can say that a backlash is still very possible.
Rare, but possible.
Because these reels are fully encased, you do not see the line feeding onto the spool which can create major complications. You MUST ensure that you maintain tension at all times as you’re reeling in your line. There is a tendency for many fish to rush towards you when they are attempting to free themselves from your line. This, inevitably creates slack in the line. That slack leads to the line crossing over itself. That crossover will either cause a backlash as your casting your lure out or will tangle enough to prevent you from reeling your fish in.
Another thing to remember with the spincast reel is its size restrictions. The casing reduces the size of the line spool. And, the smaller the line spool, the less line you can put on your reel.
If you’re in the market for a spincast reel, you may want to take a look at Bass Pro’s Buyer’s Guide for an in depth comparison of spincasting options currently on the market.
Baitcasting reels
The pinnacle of all that is “glorified” in fishing. Most fishermen will tell you that you’re not a “real” angler unless you use a baitcaster for everything. Yes, they serve a purpose. They definitely make the use of certain lures easier. You are definitely doing yourself a service if you learn to use a baitcaster. It is most definitely not, however, the end-all be-all of fishing.
Most baitcasters will usually require you to use at least a backing of fluoro or mono, but more manufacturers are developing baitcasters that can handle straight braid now. It is the most finicky of the reel styles. There’s break and drag settings that MUST be set within rather specific ranges for different types of lures.
The settings are also heavily influenced by the diameter of the line you choose. It is also important that you ensure you check your reel for the recommended line weight and length. If a reel is labeled with “Mono: 10lb test/120yds; 12lb test/110yds; 14lb test/90yds” and you try to put 30lb test monofilament on your line you will be exceptionally disappointed by the short length of line you end up having available for your fishing adventure. You’ll also be discouraged by the less than optimal performance you see and feel in that reel.
Now, lets get down to the nitty gritty of spooling your reels
Your type of reel, the size of the reel, and the rod you are using will play heavily in the line you choose. When you go to a tackle shop (especially the big box type) they aren’t typically going to tell you what size line you SHOULD use for your setup. Instead, they will typically ask you what weight you want on and, sometimes, ask how much you want put on. Occasionally, they’ll give you the choice between a few different brands. Normally, they’ll just ask if you want mono, fluoro, or braid. When you want more choice, you have to take on the responsibility yourself.
Choices, Choices, Choices…
The brand you choose to use, quite honestly, is completely a personal decision. What type of line will depend on the type of fishing you will be doing, the environment you’ll be fishing in, and (to some degree) personal preference. I typically choose to use braided line due to it’s versatility, especially in the ruff terrain I tend to fish in. Beyond that, it’s just a matter of going through the steps.
Always start your fishing spool with a good foundation.
The major tricks to remember when spooling:
Run the line through your eyelets before tying off to your reel. It helps with a smoother feed as you’re spooling.
If you’re using a spinning reel, you absolutely must lift the bell before tying your line on. Without the bell, you’re going to be spinning in thin air.
If you’re using a spincaster, make sure to run the line through the line opening of the spool cover before tying to your line spool. It can be rather difficult to attach the cover after spooling your line if you have fed the line through your eyelets otherwise.
When you choose to use a bait caster, ensure that your line feeds through the line guide before tying to your line spool. Your line spool will be either smooth or swiss chessed with what the industry refers to as wiffling. If your spool is wiffled, the process will usually go much easier and more securely (especially for new anglers) but either line spool is manageable with the right knot.
Your knot will vary from time to time.
Most anglers tend to prefer the arbor knot when spooling.
Other spooling knot options are the fisherman’s knot,
the improved clinch knot,
or the overhand knot.
The big issue is to ensure that your knot is thin enough to prevent a major obstruction to smooth spooling.
Once you’re tied to your line spool, the fun begins.
On a spinning reel, your line will circle around the stationary line spool as guided by the line roller. A Spincaster has a pickup pin, inside the spool cover, which pulls the line around the stationary line spool. This stationary line spool is the comparable factor between these two reels.
The alternative is the bait caster. On these reels the guide eye moves between the left and right as the line spool spins drawing the line in. The line guide helps keep the line spooling smoothly and evenly across the length of the line spool.
No matter which type of reel you are using, you must keep tension on the line as you spool your reel to ensure the line remains even.
Line Twist as you spool your line is a technical difficulty that is easy to overcome.
Your line needs to come off the spindle in the same direction it feeds onto the reel. If you are spooling a baitcaster, the line spool spins towards you. Ideally, you will want the spindle to be spinning towards you, with the line coming off the top of the spindle towards you.
If you are using a spincast or a spinning reel, your line will typically feed from your right, over the line spool, to your left. Setting the spindle on a flat surface with the line coming off the spindle in this same format will usually prevent line twist.
There are multiple methods for controlling the feeding line as you’re spooling your reel.
If you are alone you can:
Put your spindle of line in a bucket of water (or the waterway your fishing) and let it float so the spool will unroll evenly and smoothly as you reel.
Run a screwdriver, pencil, or something similar through the center of your line spindle and suspend in a box or between your feet as you reel.
Use a spool box to secure your line as you reel, but you’ll have to be cautious as the box will tend to move if you are reeling quickly.
Reel your line up using any number of fishing line winders. These winders will function a bit differently than any of the other solo methods because they require you to attach the reel directly to their handle.
If you have someone available to help, they can hold the spindle of line as you reel.
Not only does this help with the needed tension, but it will also allow for minor adjustments to positioning as you ensure a smooth feed. Just make sure they have something like a pencil or screwdriver to suspend the spool on. Clamping it between your fingers can cause friction and result in some discomfort to your helper.
Make sure you don’t overfill your line spool.
Line spools, today, are frequently marked with a line or divot to indicate where your line should stop. If you fill your line spool beyond this mark you are likely to cause rats nests, backlashes, or nicks in the line that can lead to fraying or breaks while casting…or worse, fighting an exceptionally worthy opponent.
When you reach this point you are ready to fish.
Attach the lure or hook of your choice and you’re ready to fight that fish of a lifetime. Best of all, you accomplished it yourself.
